Frequently Asked Questions

Although our head office is in Esenkent / Esenyurt'ta Sunflower AVM, we provide on-site service across all 39 districts of Istanbul on both the European and Anatolian sides. We can carry out same-day surveys in Beylikdüzü, Büyükçekmece, Bahçeşehir, Başakşehir and surrounding districts.

No. Our on-site survey and price quote are completely free. Our team measures your space, recommends suitable products and gives you a clear quote; the decision is entirely yours.

We provide a written workmanship warranty on every job we complete. If any problem arises due to the application, we resolve it free of charge.

Yes. If you wish, you can purchase products only. However, since professional installation makes a big difference to the product's lifespan and appearance, we recommend having the application done by us as well.

We accept cash, bank transfer and credit card payments. For suitable payment plans depending on the project size, you can contact us.

You can reach us by phone, WhatsApp or the contact form. We get back to you as soon as possible and arrange a survey appointment that suits you.

Yes. Professional installation of all the wallpapers we sell is carried out by our experienced craftsmen. We offer turnkey application including surface preparation, seam alignment and clean workmanship.

Surface preparation and installation for a standard room are usually completed within the same day. Area size, pattern matching and surface condition can affect the time; we give a clear estimate during the survey.

For a healthy and lasting result, we recommend removing the old wallpaper and preparing the surface properly. We carry out this work too; if there is an extra cost, we state it during the survey.

Yes. For children's rooms we recommend breathable, solvent-free and health-certified wallpapers. We also have a wide children's collection in terms of patterns.

Absolutely. We choose the right product together according to your space's light, usage intensity and your style. We make your decision easier with samples and catalogues.

Yes, for these areas we recommend special water- and moisture-resistant vinyl wallpapers. With the right product and proper surface preparation, a long-lasting result is achieved even in damp spaces.

Yes. Dijital wallpapers are printed specially according to your wall's dimensions. We can also print your own image provided it is high resolution.

They answer different needs. If you want pattern and texture, or the wall has hairline cracks and small flaws, wallpaper gives a better result, and vinyl-surfaced papers can be wiped. If you want a plain look and to change colour often, paint is more practical. In most homes the most balanced solution is wallpaper on one wall and paint on the others. During the survey we look at your wall and tell you which suits it.

Giving a single number would not be right; its life depends on the type of paper, the preparation of the wall and how the room is used. Non-woven papers with a vinyl surface stay in use for many years on a dry, properly primed wall. The main things that shorten its life are damp, direct sun and wrong cleaning. When seams start to open, the colour fades or the surface blisters, it is time to renew it.

The paste takes a day or two to dry, depending on the temperature and humidity of the room. During this time do not open windows to create a draught or try to dry the room quickly with a heater; fast drying makes seams open. Small bubbles seen on the first day mostly disappear by themselves as the paper dries. If a bubble remains or a seam opens after drying, tell the installer who did the work.

Non-woven papers can usually be pulled off dry, strip by strip, starting from a corner. Paper-backed and old wallpapers are first soaked with warm water or stripping solution and lifted with a scraper once the paste softens; a steamer is used on stubborn areas. After stripping, paste residue is washed off the wall, damaged areas are filled and the wall is primed. We carry out stripping and surface preparation together with the new installation.

It depends on the type, and the wave symbol on the label tells you. One wave means only fresh paste can be sponged off during hanging, two waves mean washable and three waves extra washable; a brush symbol means scrubbable. Vinyl-surfaced papers are cleaned with a damp cloth and neutral soap. Paper- and textile-faced wallpapers are not wiped with water; they are only dusted. Bleach, abrasive cleaners and scouring pads are not used on any type.

Wallpaper made to the standards is not harmful to health in normal use. Wallpapers made in Europe carry the CE mark and their fire class is stated on the label. What matters is not hanging it on a damp wall, because mould is the result of the damp underneath, not of the paper. Water-based paste is used and the room is aired afterwards. For children's rooms we recommend certified products.

A standard imported roll is 0.53 m wide and 10.05 m long, about 5.3 m². Wide rolls are 0.70 × 10.05 m (about 7 m²) and 1.06 × 10.05 m (about 10.6 m²). Turkish-made rolls are mostly 1.06 × 15.6 m, about 16.5 m². Because of pattern matching and trimming the net area covered is less, so the calculation is made by number of strips. You can use the wallpaper calculator on our website.

Labour is priced by the number of rolls or by square metre, the type of paper and its pattern match, and the condition of the wall. Stripping old wallpaper, filler and primer, ceiling work and high walls are calculated separately. We publish our current labour rates on the "Wallpaper Labour Prices" page of our website. For an exact total we take measurements in a free survey and give a written quote.

Only wallpapers made to be painted, and glass textile, are painted. We do not recommend painting over ordinary vinyl or paper-faced wallpaper: the seams show, the paper may blister and stripping it later becomes harder. If you want to change the look, the right way is to strip the paper and prepare the wall, then paint it or hang new wallpaper.

The wall is prepared first: cracks are filled, the surface is sanded and primed. With non-woven papers the paste goes on the wall and the strip is hung dry; with paper-backed ones the paste goes on the back of the paper, which is left to soak. Strips are set plumb, the pattern is matched and seams are butted edge to edge; any paste that squeezes out is wiped off at once. Edges at sockets and architraves are cut with a sharp blade. Our experienced installers do the work.

Italian decorative paints (marmorino, travertine, micro cement, etc.) give the surface depth, texture and natural effects like marble or concrete. They offer a more durable and aesthetic appearance than normal paint.

Italian paint is the general name for decorative finishes applied coat by coat with a trowel; it is not a particular brand. It contains lime, marble powder and mineral fillers and gives the wall the look of marble, travertine or concrete. Marmorino, stucco veneziano and travertine effect are its best-known techniques. It differs from plain paint in leaving a textured layer on the wall and in every wall being unique because it is worked by hand.

Labour sets the price more than material. The technique chosen, the number of coats (2 to 4 depending on the technique), how much preparation the wall needs, the area and the ceiling height all change the total. Glossy, multi-coat techniques need more preparation because they require a perfectly flat surface. That is why we do not quote per square metre without seeing the wall; in a free survey we show samples and give a written quote.

Yes, if it has a protective final coat. A surface sealed with wax or a clear protective coat is wiped with a soft, damp cloth; a few drops of neutral soap can be added to the water if needed. An unprotected lime-based surface is porous and absorbs stains. Vinegar, limescale remover, bleach and scouring pads are not used. In our applications the protective final coat is part of the job.

When sealed with a water-repellent protective coat it withstands splashes and humidity, so it can be used on bathroom and kitchen walls. On surfaces that are constantly wet, such as inside a shower, only the system the manufacturer recommends for wet rooms should be applied; otherwise tiles are safer. Lime-based finishes let water vapour through, so they do not stop the wall from breathing.

Yes. With a suitable primer a decorative finish can be changed to plain paint or to another technique. Deeply textured surfaces are first filled and sanded; if there is wax or polish, that layer is removed or a bonding primer is used so that the paint adheres. If paint is applied straight over the texture, the pattern keeps showing through the paint.

In four stages: the wall is levelled with filler and sanding, a primer specific to the technique is applied, the product is worked with a steel trowel in 2 to 4 coats depending on the technique, and finally a protective coat goes on. Drying time is left between coats and the texture is made by hand in each one. Because the result depends on the applicator, seeing a sample before deciding matters. In our applications one wall usually takes 1 to 3 days.

A coarse-grained, lime-based finish is trowelled onto the wall and, while wet, dragged horizontally with a brush or trowel to form the pores and veins of the stone. The surface is lightly flattened, joints can be scored to give the look of stone blocks, and once dry a protective or tinting final coat is applied. No stone is fixed to the wall; the finish is a few millimetres thick and adds no load.

A decorative finish with mineral fillers is trowelled over the existing wall in thin coats; the clouding left by the trowel gives the look of exposed concrete. No real concrete is poured and no formwork is needed. It can be applied over plaster, plasterboard and sound old paint. Details such as formwork marks and joints are added by hand if wanted, and the surface is sealed with a protective coat. The colour can range from light grey to anthracite.

Glass textile is a non-combustible, durable and paintable technical wall covering. It hides cracks, strengthens the surface and is ideal for high-traffic spaces such as offices, hotels and hospitals.

The wall is repaired and primed first. Glass textile is glued to the wall with its special adhesive, the strips butted edge to edge, and corners and junctions are cut with a blade. Once the adhesive has dried it is painted with two coats of water-based paint. On products with adhesive already on the back, the covering is simply activated with water, which speeds up the work. We carry out the gluing and the painting together.

It is painted with water-based interior paints. At home a matt or silk-matt paint is enough; in places that are cleaned often, such as hospitals, schools and kitchens, a washable paint that resists disinfectants is chosen. Raw glass textile needs two coats. According to the SYSTEXX catalogue of the manufacturer Vitrulan, glass textile can be repainted 10 to 15 times; you do not have to remove the covering to change the colour.

Cleaning depends on the paint on top of it. A surface painted with washable paint is wiped with a damp cloth and a neutral cleaner, and with a suitable paint system it can also be disinfected. With matt, non-washable paints it is only dusted. A wall that gets dirty or stained over time is repainted without removing the covering, which is the main reason glass textile is preferred in heavily used spaces.

The total price has three parts: the covering itself (which varies with the texture and product range), the labour for gluing, and the paint. How much repair the wall needs, the area, the ceiling height and the paint system chosen affect the total. Rolls are mostly 1 metre wide and 25 or 50 metres long. For a firm price we take measurements in a free survey and give a written quote.

Yes. We carry out turnkey renovation for apartments, offices, cafes and shops including paint, flooring, drywall and decoration. We manage the whole process with a single responsible team.

It depends on the scope. In our apartment renovations a cosmetic refresh such as painting and wallpapering takes a few days, and a full renovation including services, bathroom and kitchen can take 3 to 6 weeks. The main things that lengthen it are the drying times of screed, plaster and paint, made-to-order items such as kitchen units, and the building's permitted working hours. We give the exact schedule in writing after the survey.

The total is decided not by the size of the home but by the scope of the work: whether the services are renewed, the bathroom and kitchen, flooring, plasterboard, paint and the materials chosen. That is why two homes of the same size can cost very different amounts. A figure given without seeing the home is a guess. In a free survey we take measurements, give a quote listing every item of work and keep within the agreed budget.

From rough to fine: strip-out and demolition, plumbing and wiring, plaster and plasterboard, waterproofing and tiling in wet rooms, windows and door frames, filler and first coat of paint, kitchen and bathroom units, flooring, and last of all the final coat of paint and the wallpaper. The rule is simple: work that makes dust and uses water comes first, surfaces that scratch come later. If the order is broken, finished work has to be done again.

Working hours are set by the rules of the building or estate management and by the municipality's noise regulations, and they vary from building to building. Out of consideration for neighbours we generally work during daytime working hours. Before starting we find out the management's rules and plan noisy jobs such as demolition and drilling for the permitted hours.

Work that does not touch the structure of the building, such as painting, wallpaper, flooring, units and repairs to services, generally needs no permit. Altering load-bearing walls, columns and beams, changing the facade, enclosing a balcony and work that affects common areas are subject to permission and approved drawings. If you are unsure, ask your municipality and the building management. We help you with the notices to the management.

A good quote sets out in writing the work to be done item by item, the brand and type of the materials, the start and finish dates, the payment plan and the workmanship guarantee. Strip-out, rubble, transport and cleaning are the items most often forgotten. Compare two quotes not by the total but by whether they cover the same items. We give our quote in writing, item by item, after the survey.

There is no fixed interval; the type of paint, the surface preparation, the direction the facade faces and the climate decide. The facade itself shows when it is time: powder left on your hand when you rub it, marked fading, more hairline cracks, blistering, and the wall darkening as it absorbs rain. Waiting once these signs appear increases the cost of repairs. The manufacturer's guarantee period varies by product; ask about it when you get a quote.

Most manufacturers advise against applying exterior paint below +5 °C and on surfaces that have become very hot in the sun; the exact limits are in the product data sheet. The temperature of the wall matters as much as that of the air: a wall in shade is colder than the air. No painting is done on days when rain, dew or frost is expected. In Istanbul the best period is from late spring to early autumn.

The standard application is one coat of primer and two coats of paint. The primer evens out the absorbency of the surface and makes the paint adhere; two full coats make the colour and the protection even. Thinning the paint and applying a single coat does not replace two coats, and the paint wears sooner. Going from a dark colour to a light one, or very absorbent surfaces, may need an extra coat. The number of coats follows the product data sheet.

Four things: the facade area to be painted, the condition of the surface, the paint system chosen and the need for scaffolding or access. Preparation such as crack repair, scraping off blistered paint and render repairs is the item that changes the total most. That is why the price per square metre differs from building to building. We examine the facade on site and give the survey and quote free of charge.

Microcement is a cement-based coating applied a few millimetres thick, without joints, to floors, walls and worktops. Because it can also go over existing tiles, it allows renewal without demolition. It is used in bathrooms, but it must be applied to a waterproofed surface and finished with a waterproof protective coat. With no joints it is easy to clean; its look is matt and similar to concrete.

The wall is measured and the positions of the frames are marked; the mouldings are mitre-cut and glued, the joints are filled and the mouldings are painted together with the wall. They give the cleanest result on a painted wall. Mouldings can be fixed over wallpaper, but they must bond to the wall, not to the paper; otherwise they come away with it. The right order is mouldings and paint first, then wallpaper inside the frames.

A hairline crack is opened slightly, dusted, filled and sanded, then primed and painted. For cracks that keep reopening in the same place, the lasting solution is to cover the wall with glass textile or glass fleece before painting. Wide cracks are repaired with mesh and repair mortar. For cracks that run diagonally, keep widening or follow columns and beams, a structural engineer should be consulted first.